Alright, so in the past, I've made two attempts at buying a car, and both times, shit went wrong, and it never went through. This time, it's looking likely, but I realized, I may know a lot about the history about automotives, and lots about how to drive, but I know dick all when it comes to actually buying a used car.

So what should I look for? Any helpful tips? What to notice about it when I go check it out, what should and shouldn't be? Any info will help.

Always pay attention to signs, be patient and choosey. Buy from a reputatable place, not some scrapyard scumhole shack.

First, find a car model(s) you're interested in. Shop all around state or nearby via internet, and look for the best deal of all. You must be patient; It might take weeks, months if you have that kind of time to wait but then again buying a car is a serious deal and takes that kind of time. Being hasty will cost you in the long run.

Classically, I'd always say get a Carfax vehicle report, but some problems go unreported, so you can't depend on their accuracy. This all leads into my friend's nightmarish episode when he purchased a 1999 VW Passat last Spring and he soon discovered it was laden with problems. Since I was living at his house at the time, I watched the whole unbelievable show go down: he sunk thousands into a car he originally paid $6,000 for because he had to have it. It cost him bigtime.

When I say listen to the signs: he was refused a loan by two banks (though his and his future wife's credit was excellent). The dealer he purchased it from was a buffoon who lied on various accounts, misled him about the car's problems (reported no major problems with the car at sale). Turns out it had a leaking anti-freeze pump, computer/HUD light problems that still haven't been resolved. He was hasty; bought the car within a week of finding the model he wanted.

Finally, weeks after he was originally going to pick it up, the guy never registered it with the DMV even though he told him he did over the phone (which is literally 20 seconds away). There were even more problems with it I cannot remember but he literally reported a new issue with the car each week. Hold the dealership accountable if they aren't honest, my buddy almost did but in the end he did not.

It was a real nightmare. Today, the car runs fine (still has electrical problems), but he's sunk so much in repair and grief into it over the last year defeated the deal he originally got.

I've known tons of people who have experienced what XISMZERO's friend did.  I ended up going with a new car because that way I didn't inherit anyone else's problems.  Obviously it was a LOT more expensive in the short-term, but seeing as I grew up in a family where we keep cars for 15+ years (taking really good care of them to make sure they last), that seemed the more logical route for me to go.

I'm with Qui Gon on this one.  New is the way to go.  There are plenty of new cars you can get for less than $15k, especially with all the fuel efficient subcompacts that are available now.

I wouldn't dream of buying a new car... just don't want a car payment. I'm sure there are many other people that wouldn't want such a commitment considering the way the economy is; you want to at least own something if things go south job wise. My used Pontiac Grand Prix 2000 SE cost me around $4000 has been very good but then again I don't really put too much mileage on it.

Of course, now that I mentioned it, I'm sure something will go horribly wrong. Curse my big mouth.

I was more thinking along the lines of physical stuff. What should I check on the car to make sure it's in fine shape, and worth buying?

I've had good luck with used cars... but I have mechanics in the family and I can trust that the $1500 piece of shit that I'm driving is at least dependable.

I wish you luck with your purchase.

From now on, I only buy new cars. This is because they are less expensive. I no longer have to buy new transmissions, new engines and bother a lot of people asking for rides. While I have a car payment, that's all I have. There is nothing else to worry about. If you have really bad credit and no one will give you a loan, then only buy a used car from someone you know very well.

I owned 3 used cars before my new Cobalt. All 3 of them caused a lot of problems, both financially and socially. If you buy a used car with a computer, then familiarize yourself with the codes. Or buy your own code reader. It's important to know what the mechanic is talking about when he gives you some numbers, because he won't explain it. This will also help you catch him in a lie, if he's a bit shady. I didn't have these problems when I owned used cars without computers. My dad just fixed them.

The advantage of buying a much older used car is that they are easier to repair because there are no codes. You figure out the problem with common sense. With a newer used car, you have to get the code from the computer.

Also, don't buy a 1997 Pontiac Bonneville. All of their transmissions are defective. That was unofficially announced by GM. (My dad knew a transmission mechanic that got the notice from GM. I also got to buy two new transmissions before GM sent out the notice.)

your best bet is to watch the market on cars.com for used vehicles in your area. I was watching Ford Escapes for months, when i finally found mine last april.

any reputable dealership is going to give you the carfax report FREE,, any private seller who isn't hiding something should do the same.

i lucked out with a 4 cylinder stick shift (got an awesome 28.375mpg on my first 14 gallon tank) SUV. it was a 2006 model year, but it was sold new from the dealer in march '07, so that was where the warranty began. Plus it only had 13.5k miles on it (its at 21.5 now).

If you know how to drive stick, its much to your advantage since dealers tend to get stuck with them (they cant just refuse to take them as trade-ins), plus it betters your city mileage by 2-4 mpg

You might want to consider purchasing from a rent-a-car service.  Places like Enterprise often have cars in their inventory clocking in under 18K miles, selling quite a bit under the Kelley Blue Book value.  With Enterprise specifically, there's a 7-day return period - enough time for you to take it in to a trained mechanic to give it a full inspection before committing to buy.

I know it's hit-and-miss, but give Craigslist a try.  Me and my wife bought a 2007 Mitsubishi Endeavor with 11k miles for $11,000.  Had to drive out of state to get it, but had alot of fun on the way and the car still smells new!  There are deals to be had!

I created a topic like this last year because I was looking for a car. I ended up with a 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS (Canadian model). It's costing me a lot each month but I don't regret it. I made no compromise and simply got the car I wanted. I think it's best to pay a little more (if you can afford it) to get the car you really want, instead of paying a little less for something you kinda want, but all the while thinking you never really got want you wanted (did that made sence?).

Anyways, I'd go with a new japanese car. They're not really more expensive than other brands. Hyundai (Korean) is much better than they used to be too. I wouldn't go with a white car as they rust faster... I think.

I don't think white cars rust or anything faster; it's just due to the color that you'll notice any and all imperfections like a beacon.

also, depending on where you live, the sales tax can be killer.

here in lovely Cook County, IL its 10% (even higher within the chicago city limits), however if you buy a used car in a private transaction, then you pay sales tax (based upon the age of the used car) when you apply for the license plates.

its currently arround 800$ if the car is 1-2 model years old,, then it drops about 40% for each additional year of age... so for a 6 year old used car youre only talking about $120